tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7699477412881376902024-03-14T07:04:08.494-07:00Nabil Abdoa woodworking logNabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-75379778902295742382015-03-24T12:00:00.001-07:002015-03-24T12:00:52.831-07:00 Walnut Dining Trestle Table: Final Details<br />
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There are so many details to a finished piece that the process of readying a table for delivery almost becomes a subconscious march of affairs. As your hands become trained to spot the various stages each element of the piece present, you begin a dance to release it from the shop.<br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-45283058744296841172015-02-13T08:57:00.001-08:002015-02-13T08:57:23.671-08:00Walnut Dining Trestle Table: Top<br />
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Large table tops benefit from breadboard ends. They help keep the assembly flat and protect end-grain.<br />
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I lay out the tenon and stub tenon and use a plunge router with a straight bit to form the tenons, I saw out the waste using a jigs saw and a handsaw. <br />
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The breadboards are dadoed to receive the stub tenon and slot mortised to receive the tenons.<br />
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Once they are fitted I clamp them in place and drill through the whole assembly to locate the pegs.<br />
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The slots in the outer tenons are later widened to allow for movement.<br />
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Here we are right before assembly.Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-81635414039012589172014-12-08T08:31:00.001-08:002014-12-08T08:31:31.190-08:00Walnut Dining Trestle Table: Stretcher<div>
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While the most joinery occurs in the leg assemblies of this trestle table, its the stretcher that makes the whole design work. Resisting racking forces and providing a stable base all depends on the stretcher.</div>
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The stretcher joins the legs via a large scale through tenon that benefits from some drawbored pins as do most large scale joints, </div>
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We are gonna use that same draw boring for the feet and the bridal joint,</div>
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Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-86699740145672781862014-12-05T08:42:00.002-08:002014-12-05T08:42:54.269-08:00Walnut Dining Trestle Table: Legs Part 2<br />
This about where we left off on the legs.<br />
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Cutting this bridal joint is fun and exacting all at the same time. You can see the kerfs I use to relieve the waste. The final removal can be done via chisel or a bandsaw. Layout marks indicate orientation. Cross grain cuts are all knifed to score fibers.<br />
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The leg assemblies are joined via a centrally located stretcher that sits in a thru tenon cut into the upright of each leg. Here is the layout,<br />
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The corresponding tenon is cut using a router and router board, here we are sizing the tenon:<br />
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Its easy to resolve to beating this joint together but far more productive to slowly work on the fit, there is no hiding a sloppy fit on a thru tenon:<br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-55659475856494793962014-11-14T09:51:00.001-08:002014-11-14T09:51:29.003-08:00Walnut Dining Trestle Table: Legs Part 1<br />
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This table is all about the legs. So thats where we start:<br />
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Sizing the blanks for the feet on the bandsaw<br />
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No 16/4 Walnut handy, so these are face laminations of 8/4 stock.</div>
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The foot features a colossal M/T joint where the upright meets the foot, I like to start with the mortise. If I can get a nice mortise cut with parallel walls, I find it easier to size the tenon. </div>
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I hog these out on the slot mortiser , adjusting the z-axis as I go:</div>
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Put the upright right on the foot and pull your measurements directly. This is a simple joint to cut. I am comfortable running the upright on the TS and finishing off with a sharp X-Cut handsaw.</div>
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With the bottom joint fitting properly we move to the bridle joint at the top attaching the upright to the upper support where the top will rest. Again work piece to piece using centerlines always to line up and do the layout.</div>
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Its easy to miscut this joint because you are only removing half of the material from either member. I chose to kerf the waste and finish up on the bandsaw.</div>
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Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-64718515486634979302014-09-09T12:16:00.004-07:002014-09-09T12:16:50.205-07:00Walnut Dining Trestle Table: Preview<div>
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coming soon....a generous 8 foot trestle table in walnut</div>
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Pulling out all the stops</div>
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- M&T joinery</div>
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- drawbored joints</div>
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- breadboard ends</div>
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- 8/4 material</div>
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Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-38467529310145829992014-08-14T11:54:00.001-07:002014-08-14T11:54:40.503-07:00<br />
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A few shots of the completed Maze Bookcase Project<br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-5881290874310894182014-07-08T11:49:00.001-07:002014-07-08T11:49:20.749-07:00Maze Bookcase: Joinery<br />
I had a few questions posted about how these bookcases came together and decided I would reveal a bit more about what was going on:<br />
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These bookcases feature cantilevered shelves from the left and right sides. Shelves like this are always a challenge because of the physics involved in supporting something from its endpoint. I settled on a tight dado, reinforced with loose tenons to keep the shelf from sagging and prevent it from being levered away from the side.<br />
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The central divider with horizontal shelves is assembled with a modified cross lap joint:<br />
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you can see the shallow dado that gives the cross lap even more strength and cleans up the intersection of the shelf with the upright.<br />
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The top and bottom are all attached to the side and upright with loose tenons.<br />
<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-60237437322298711832014-05-21T12:23:00.001-07:002014-05-21T12:23:46.759-07:00Maze Bookcase Project<br />
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Thought I might check in here with a new client project:<br />
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There are numerous parts, and prep for finish has begun.<br />
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I will post some joinery details soon.Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-22820653513737739112014-02-19T14:13:00.001-08:002014-02-19T14:13:06.341-08:00White Oak Console Table: Finish<br />
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A simple shaker inspired table like this is a great candidate for an oil varnish blend, but the ambered tone of oak furniture has been maligned by the mass production ubiquity of cheap oak kitchen cabinetry. The client wanted the look of raw white oak (as if it had just been sanded) that did not have the orange tones of an oil/varnish.<br />
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I shot the table with a matte clear conversion varnish. The finish is a catalyzed product that is water white, incredibly tough, and comes in a flat 10 sheen.<br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-89746210504335707852014-01-29T09:18:00.001-08:002014-01-29T10:23:30.362-08:00 White Oak Console Table: The Top<br />
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A beautiful table top grabs your attention and engages your interest, often enticing your hands to run over its length. These are the outward workings of a top: are its dimensions correct, does the finish suit it style, will it function as the piece is intended?<br />
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Large solid tops are challenging in almost every way.<br />
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I have to confess I glued up this top and had a panic attack. I was under a time crunch and the glue-up had not yielded a suitable surface. There were some raised edges along the glue lines, and I had a bit of cup across the width.<br />
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What did I do, I took it to someone with bigger machines. A 42" planer sander to be exact, and they leveled and sanded this top fantastically. Moral of the story, there is no shame to knowing the limits of your own shop.<br />
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Even with the top flat and sanded, there was still much work to be done.<br />
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In my opinion large tops like this benefit greatly from breadboard ends. They help keep the top flat and stable. I also find that the edge where the endgrain would normally be exposed is neater .<br />
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I start this process by making a shallow crosscut to define the shoulder of the tenon:<br />
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With the fibers cleanly severed, we can hog out the waste to define the cheeks of the tenon, <br />
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Lay out and cut your tenons, making sure to leave a stub tenon.<br />
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I cut these with a jigsaw and transferred the layout to the breadboard end blanks. After milling the groove to fit the stub tenon, I drilled out the mortises on the drill press.<br />
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Breadboard ends are traditionally pegged, but only glued on the center tenon, the peg holes in the tenons are widened to allow the top to expand with the clearance they are given in the mortises.<br />
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I lay glue on the center tenon and glue on all the pegs and assemble the the breadboards onto the top. The top is done. </div>
<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-36704361130026474662014-01-16T15:06:00.000-08:002014-01-29T09:17:01.793-08:00White Oak Console Table: Drawers<br />
There is something wonderful about opening and closing a handmade drawers that has no metal slides.<br />
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I chose to complete the drawers with a pinned rabbet design, after reading an article by <a href="http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/fine-drawers-without-dovetails.aspx">Hendrik Varju</a>.<br />
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After choosing a single board to complete the drawer fronts and sizing the drawer front blanks to be tightly fit, it was time to accomplish the joinery for all the parts.<br />
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The sides fits into a rabbet cut into the front:<br />
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Notice that the sides stand proud of the sides, part of the finally fitting will involve a pass on the jointer to ensure a nice flush fit.<br />
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The carcass of the drawer is glued up, using a piece of scrap ply that matches the thickness of the bottom. A diagonal clamp helps ensure square.<br />
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With the drawer carcasses glued up, I do the initial fitting by one quick pass on the jointer for the sides and a fine tuning with a smoother:<br />
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To increase the strength of the rabbet joinery, pins are driven thru the sides into the edge of the fronts<br />
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With the joinery finished, I size the ply bottoms, fine tune the fit of each drawer, wipe the interiors with a spit coat of shellac and set the drawers aside.</div>
<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-5329902816605570522013-11-20T13:57:00.002-08:002013-11-20T13:57:54.404-08:00White Oak Console Table: Base Part 3<br />
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With the table legs tapered, I glued up the 2 leg assemblies, trimming pegs on the way.<br />
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As much as I love driving home a drawbored peg, the real fun was only about to begin.<br />
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Up next I cut the dovetail joinery for the upper divider that sits right above the drawers, because of the length I had to be creative with how I clamped and cut out the tails.<br />
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You can see that there is also a tail placed in the doubler as well as the leg. While I had hoped to get an airtight fit, these are purely functionally and will be hidden under the top.</div>
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Below the upper divider is, oddly enough the lower divider attached with a triple tenon into the leg:</div>
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Position the divider and mark away! Follow up with the mortising and we now have both dividers ready to be marked out for the drawer partitions:</div>
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thats 3 dividers with 6 tenons a piece, 18 M&T's, the word slog comes to mind.</div>
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Domino in the kickers on the rear face of the dividers and half lap them into the upper/lower ledger and we are ready to put the drawer framework together:</div>
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I glue in the framework, along with the drawer guides,<br />
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the base is done.<br />
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Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-55536959628210536742013-10-24T07:45:00.003-07:002013-10-24T07:46:57.068-07:00White Oak Console Table: Base 2<div>
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Once the legs have been mortised it was time to tenon the two side and the rear aprons.<br />
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The side aprons are done as most shops cut tenons: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzj5DrS3bZF0fJiAqEJGnrehnkDz2zYiTGYsApm285Fu_3bONShK2RuFoIxw9oHopIUnLbVjEpeV25Om4iWH5wXW_FSu2YumfleJunKWhjHLumcFHed8zARJzbH4MycSH9PiqlgaCghY/s1600/IMG_4000.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzj5DrS3bZF0fJiAqEJGnrehnkDz2zYiTGYsApm285Fu_3bONShK2RuFoIxw9oHopIUnLbVjEpeV25Om4iWH5wXW_FSu2YumfleJunKWhjHLumcFHed8zARJzbH4MycSH9PiqlgaCghY/s200/IMG_4000.JPG" width="200" /></a>With a nearly 9 ft rear apron, the same technique was not gonna work. I </div>
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chose to kerf the ends and clean up with a chisel. We shape the tenons a bit more and here is where we end.</div>
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At this point we are ready to put together our leg assemblies, we just need to taper the legs and clean them up.<br />
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Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-44119942740063837842013-10-08T19:09:00.000-07:002013-10-08T19:09:34.339-07:00White Oak Console Table: Base <br />
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In a table with drawers there are a lot of components that make up the guts, but they all depend on a solid base. The base is chiefly comprised of 4 legs and 3 aprons.<br />
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I begin with the legs.<br />
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Leg should be chosen from slash grain (bastard), if possible, the diagonal grain will present uniformly on all four sides. I try to select leg material carefully, as these will be part of the show face of the table.<br />
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As you can see here I have laminated 6/4 stock to form 2.5" square blanks. I orient the blanks to show the most uniform from a frontal view of the table, relegating flatsawn facets to the rear of the table.<br />
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Note the marking, we are gonna be dealing with joinery soon and we don't want legs to change orientation, causing us to mortise the wrong face.<br />
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I keep the legs square as long as possible, only tapering them once the joinery has been cut.<br />
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Gang the legs and lay out the mortises on the proper faces.<br />
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I make every effort to make things as clearly marked as possible, and off we are to the slot mortiser:<br />
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I was hesitant to build this machine initially, (woodgears.ca design), but could not pass up the time saving it offers. For the amount of M&T I do, it produces a quick/clean mortise in a few sweeps of the bit with minimal setup. This is another example of where clean layout pays off. Adjust the x,y,z motions to the outlines of the shadowed mortise and begin hogging out material.<br />
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If all goes well, here is what you get:<br />
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Cheers!<br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-14774396739633058462013-09-12T09:15:00.000-07:002013-09-12T09:15:19.883-07:00White Oak Console Table: The Design<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I have started on a new piece that will be a long console table made from White Oak.<br />
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Dimensions: 108"l x 24"w x 32"h<br />
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The design is based on the essential Shaker table with drawers. These types of table most often taking the form of a small side or night table, represent the simple, and functional spirit of the Shakers.<br />
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The long span of the table was a challenge to balance with the proportions of the legs and the drawer depth.<br />
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The legs do taper a 1/2" from below the drawers to the bottom on the inside faces to lighten the visual weight. We are after a strong and graceful table.<br />
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The top will feature breadboard ends to control cup and stability in a 24" wide top.<br />
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The guts of the table will involve drawer components found in traditional construction: doublers, runners, kickers, dividers, and partitions.<br />
<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-60828527884998025042013-08-07T13:33:00.000-07:002013-08-07T13:33:00.478-07:00Burl Slab Tables: The Finish<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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These coffee tables were tough to finish because of the nature of the Mesquite. Soft sections in the grain and bark inclusions forced the use of epoxy. The dramatic swirls and curl in the grain often come along with challenging porous spots, loose bark, and pockets.<br />
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Progressive sanding from 120 up to 220 cleans the surface.<br />
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I begin with flooding the surface with Danish oil in a "natural" tint (watco), and let all the surfaces soak in the oil . This allows the wood to take on a shine and illuminate the grain. Re-apply this blend after an initial 30 minutes, and then wipe down any standing or excess oil. Puddles left on the surface will leave a sticky film that will interfere with our topcoat.<br />
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Watco like other oil/varnish blends is mostly boiled linseed oil and as such you must allow it to dry before you proceed to your topcoats. On a lighter use piece you may just go with 3 coats of a danish oil and that will suffice. For a table that is bound to see cold drinks and more traffic, more varnish is called for.<br />
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In choosing to apply more protection comes the compromise of a more natural feel to the surface versus a surface that is slick with all pores closed with resin. For the base and underside of the table I brushed on 2 wet coats of a Satin varnish (GF Arm-r-Seal ) and 3 wet coats to the top of a Semi Gloss (same). <br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-40792551663441496142013-07-03T08:38:00.000-07:002013-07-03T08:38:20.581-07:00Burl Slab Tables: The Stretcher<br />
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With the legs dry fit into the top, it was time to fit the stretcher to the legs. I like a stretcher near the bottom of the legs, as it gives more visual weight and will get rid of any likelihood the table will rack.<br />
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We use a type of cross lap to join the legs to the stretcher:<br />
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Keep it simple and put your tape measure away, this is all relative layout.</div>
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We place the stretcher exactly where we want it using center lines marked on the legs to mark the cheeks:</div>
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Some will be tempted to use a simple cross lap in which half the thickness of the stretcher is removed from the leg and the stretcher. I prefer to recess the lap by 3/8" to hide any imperfections in the joint. I achieve this recess by defining the cheeks on the SCMS with the depth stop set and kerfing in between the layout lines until I can slide the blade back and forth.</div>
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Using the bandsaw we cut a simple slot in the legs for the stretcher to fit into. And thus the base is ready to go!</div>
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Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-17287711680564906482013-06-28T13:26:00.000-07:002013-06-28T13:26:48.600-07:00Burl Slab Tables: the Base<br />
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My guiding principle in creating these slab tables is to allow the top speak. I looked for a simple and substantial design for the legs. Working with cuts from longer slabs I chose the following shape for the legs:<br />
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Dadoing the underside of the slab gives us a solid seat for the tenons on the end of the legs. With the legs dry fit into the top, I laid out the shoulders for the cross lap on the stretcher:<br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-19637087765177780112013-06-17T08:32:00.001-07:002013-06-17T08:32:49.217-07:00A-Frame Nightstand Completed<div>
<b>A-Frame NightStands</b></div>
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Walnut, Poplar</div>
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20"w x 15"d x 26 1/4" h</div>
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Watco Danish Oil (Natural), Arm-R-Seal</div>
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I initially designed this nightstand in 2011 as a way of blending dovetail case construction with a mid-century modern aesthetic. </div>
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The case features dovetail construction, seperated into 2 compartments with a solid shelf seated in a dado. Perched on four legs, rabbeted to accept the case, the design moves away from traditional mortise/tenon which feature aprons to join the legs to the top. The leg assemblies are connected with a stretcher to resist racking forces.</div>
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Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-15402436607484509182013-01-30T18:16:00.001-08:002013-01-30T18:16:16.495-08:00Dovetail BoxDovetail Box<br />
Box Carcasse: South American Mahogany<br />
Hinges: African Mahogany<br />
Top Panel: Black Walnut<br />
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Finish: Le Tonkinois Bio Impression Flat Varnish<br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-41550225101256901202012-08-02T12:25:00.000-07:002012-08-02T12:25:38.865-07:00Versailles PlantersVersailles Planters<br />
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African Mahogany Posts, Frames, Finials<br />
MDO panels<br />
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<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-6983017570603914382012-05-22T07:16:00.001-07:002012-05-22T07:16:07.843-07:00African Mahogany Garden Gate<br />
UVA Garden Gate<br />
African Mahogany,<br />
MDO Exterior Grade Panel<br />
42" x 64" x 1 7/8"<br />
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Inspired by the campus grounds of UVA, a recent client asked me to recreate one of these historic gates.<br />
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Homes in the neighborhood will often have viewing openings in the fence, in the same vein as the gate a insert panel was created to fit this opening.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPBuav5Rb4V8fVDMljhVBBr84yAYSCAAgPnYvu6ltp5u4zpUe6OQHXuGOZTECWr-0_z6cTQG4424nOihbClcjAoO5-jktQrSQm8DQ4T6Z9jP9b7NxeWfBjonUMdKZOhfyEDlaZwhlCzg/s1600/IMG_3272.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPBuav5Rb4V8fVDMljhVBBr84yAYSCAAgPnYvu6ltp5u4zpUe6OQHXuGOZTECWr-0_z6cTQG4424nOihbClcjAoO5-jktQrSQm8DQ4T6Z9jP9b7NxeWfBjonUMdKZOhfyEDlaZwhlCzg/s320/IMG_3272.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-83926896983406682412012-04-25T15:55:00.000-07:002012-04-25T15:55:04.577-07:00Bloodwood Shifter ConsoleDoes your Camaro have a Bloodwood Console?<br />
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Nitro Lacquer Satin<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2b5Oio028f0KywX7qor34-7nE_1qybWY89qkj0HW0Dp06D4Pskxsdr2KdC-eSD0vvaUjDX0JaJ6pswozNv9JB39fMzUoYhaqueeElHA-XIvmLbBm5-OpMMFB6G4ZuNyzo_HsRa0m-kA/s1600/IMG_3265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2b5Oio028f0KywX7qor34-7nE_1qybWY89qkj0HW0Dp06D4Pskxsdr2KdC-eSD0vvaUjDX0JaJ6pswozNv9JB39fMzUoYhaqueeElHA-XIvmLbBm5-OpMMFB6G4ZuNyzo_HsRa0m-kA/s320/IMG_3265.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdFZmQCAs_hYpadpfXo7yJeapMHNs9id0QB-9Ph9gJ9tNdPlcC2r3SLcL8mhFyv2GK8qAHVjr68BFRJC5xADgV0TnZBNgHbOG-dNP2svSkTIAQFDpBUjENVVeGg7STXdhMbT00GLieCG8/s1600/IMG_3266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdFZmQCAs_hYpadpfXo7yJeapMHNs9id0QB-9Ph9gJ9tNdPlcC2r3SLcL8mhFyv2GK8qAHVjr68BFRJC5xADgV0TnZBNgHbOG-dNP2svSkTIAQFDpBUjENVVeGg7STXdhMbT00GLieCG8/s320/IMG_3266.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-769947741288137690.post-28976353603987112572012-02-13T09:25:00.000-08:002012-02-13T09:25:50.922-08:00Vitrine Antique RepairI had an interesting piece come into the shop this week.<br />
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From what I can gather it is a Gilt Tilt-Top Vitrine.<br />
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I believe meant to display items. It had been knocked over and one of the legs was broken off.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimgL1vy5zI6bfsEb3HSAugcsitv2UjPBtFUFPeAuoMC87zxJLTYw0s2grGBK5kDuynGPpZBAtB4UYV985EOzBnHuSgUYKrJ9TKFpMfJOAMvQ68WxiJo8AWW8TFdsSDdNE_lCnt4oNmARM/s1600/IMG_3195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimgL1vy5zI6bfsEb3HSAugcsitv2UjPBtFUFPeAuoMC87zxJLTYw0s2grGBK5kDuynGPpZBAtB4UYV985EOzBnHuSgUYKrJ9TKFpMfJOAMvQ68WxiJo8AWW8TFdsSDdNE_lCnt4oNmARM/s320/IMG_3195.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Several Glue-ups and Parts Repair later here she is:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTNZ-NCLEpr3kGhR_lJx705QVrjFvcJdcnd7DrcwHcSbg_Tm4F9lglzKM703cOwQrCGib8hsN70OUoESw_9J98w_f8pVHbqq_UU0Vvux6m5clLG8O0wwHT5SU7T2pN76ynH46uhhSwARg/s1600/IMG_3212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTNZ-NCLEpr3kGhR_lJx705QVrjFvcJdcnd7DrcwHcSbg_Tm4F9lglzKM703cOwQrCGib8hsN70OUoESw_9J98w_f8pVHbqq_UU0Vvux6m5clLG8O0wwHT5SU7T2pN76ynH46uhhSwARg/s320/IMG_3212.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW0hs3FtC_8eU2YhXU613lKawXYwdZPeQDA17m0UkoI6xxNKEWtoO5IJ3KRhVn2At9ip6olqzP5uPW99Jsm9zuAqtvTaRvRo2WtWw2K6-pZ_a-Sz3Zx0MZ5kO5NjMJQ7bZtDwNbLlmfZ8/s1600/IMG_3213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW0hs3FtC_8eU2YhXU613lKawXYwdZPeQDA17m0UkoI6xxNKEWtoO5IJ3KRhVn2At9ip6olqzP5uPW99Jsm9zuAqtvTaRvRo2WtWw2K6-pZ_a-Sz3Zx0MZ5kO5NjMJQ7bZtDwNbLlmfZ8/s320/IMG_3213.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div>Nabil Abdohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12680666183014865897noreply@blogger.com1